Yearly Archives: 2018

Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi.

It’s spectacular when you arrive:

And it’s interesting to see how “physically disabled” translates around here:

As the light fades it gets more and more photogenic:

And keeps getting better until you’re torn between staying for more photos or racing back to the hotel for the end of happy hour in the Club lounge:

If you visit the middle east, the Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi at sunset should be top of your list.

Although, I was glad I decided to leave when I did because the Martinis, whiskey sours, and wagyu beef canapes in the Rosewood club lounge, are absolutely first class.

Saved the most photogenic day till last, so two posts for day 23 because I can’t reduce the shortlist of photos any further.

Abu Dhabi is deserted because it’s a weekend and a special religious holiday.

Nobody in the Club lounge at the Rosewood, which by the way takes club lounges to a whole new level. Not just sandwiches for lunch but a bacon cheeseburger and fries, and the happy hour canapes include succulent slices of wagyu beef and the most delicious cheese I’ve ever tasted:

Nobody on the roads:

Nobody at the shopping mall:

And nobody but security guards at the Louvre, which is way too small and limited to share the name “Louvre” but has some spectacular items including my favourite Japanese:

The best part of the Louvre is the exterior design:

None of the above existed 30 years ago, not even most of the land. Now there are islands, 10 lane highways, high-end hotels, including one of the world’s biggest and most expensive, helipads, marinas, malls, ferris wheels, beaches, 60 storey apartment and office blocks, and a golf course, all created with trillions of dollars of oil money.

Another great hotel suite, this time at The Rosewood.

I can even dim the bathroom lights, close the bedroom curtains, or change the temperature in the living room using the TV remote control.

There are two sides to Beirut. The downtown area has been rebuilt post-war by a private company called Solidere that was given exclusive rights by the government and has bulldozed any remaining history and small business. It reeks of corruption and foreign (Saudi) money and influence. At first you think it’s quite nice as you stroll around the marinas and posh shops, then you realise it’s all new and and it’s all empty.

This photo is the laughably named Beirut Souk. Don’t know about you but to me a Souk is not a modern shopping mall. All of downtown is generic international brands, generic international hotels, generic international restaurants, and an absence of soul or charm or character.

There are also no people. You see more heavily armed security guards than civilians. See how busy the souk is at 11am? Two people.

When I first passed through this plaza, all a fake rebuild, there were 7 armed guards and me.

If you want charm and character and soul you have to go to Hamra or Gemmayzeh, and in case you don’t notice all the people and noise and chaos and real life on these “streets of traditional character” there are even handy signs to point you in the right direction.

The places away from downtown are full of life, it’s just that you have to risk your life a thousand times by crossing the road to get there.

There are signs of the war, here and there.

I left for the airport with what seemed like loads of time to spare but I didn’t know the president was doing something in the city which meant that all the roads were closed, armed soldiers and police where everywhere, and traffic was at a standstill. It seemed that nobody knew this was going to happen. My taxi driver complained “This city is shit. Everyday another problem, and they treat us like shit”.

I made it to the airport just in time for a 3 hour ride in the Etihad 787 business class studio, which was a nice precursor to the 7 hours I’ll get to spend in the Etihad A380 first class apartment in a few days.

Star Wars, champagne, a three course meal, and even a massage on the way.

Arriving in Abu Dhabi at dusk and to a suite on the 51st floor of the Jumeirah Etihad Towers.

A very nice room with a view.

And great quality. Just to illustrate the attention to detail, here’s a photo of something I have never before photographed and probably never will again.

Can you tell what it is?

There are frequent power cuts in Lebanon. Twice I’ve been stuck in lifts, but the worst was in the cable car, the Teleferique, which came to a sudden stop and started swinging wildly over the biggest drop, setting my heart racing, leaving me wondering how good Lebanese safety standards are and whether they even have rescue teams…

It was even scarier than Bataara gorge waterfall, where the wet and slippery rocks slope down toward the edge, leaving you in no doubt that one slip would see you plummet into the abyss, and thankful that there are no other people there jostling for position on what tiny footholds there are.