Author Archives: Alistair Todd

Day 16 Siem Reap, originally uploaded by Big Al!.

An early start and the hotel taxi is ready and waiting. Even at 6am the city is humming with a million bikes and the traffic is the usual criss-crossing, seemingly impossible, interlocking whirlwind of completely calm riders, drivers and walkers, that only works because everyone is going relatively slowly and all are cooperating. If large numbers started to be selfish, the system would crash, and hundreds of people would die every day, instead of the mere 30 odd at present. Great views of the city through early mist as we head onto the motorway, and in minutes I’m through check in and security, ready to spend my last Dong in the airport cafe. Last night I bought a small back pack as an easier to carry alternative to my cabin bag. Like everything over here, it was dirt cheap and a knock off of a well known brand, The North Face.30 minutes later the handle snaps off. The odd thing is that the real deal is probably made over here…

Just when I’m thinking everything is going according to plan with the first part of this trip not organised by someone else, they announce that the flight is delayed due to bad weather in Laos. Thankfully, it’s the same aircraft for both legs, to Luang
Prabang and Siem Reap, so I won’t miss the connection, but I’m left hoping the flight goes ahead. Late is ok, cancelled would be bad news.

Another announcement. Vietnam airlines regret….. Delayed at least another hour.

But then, Vietnam airlines is pleased to announce…. and a short time later I’m arriving at Siem Reap airport. Visa application is effortless, and I’m greeted by my chauffeur who takes me to a 1935 Citroën limousine for a slow ride through the flooded streets. The whole landscape is under water, roads are closed, driver says the only way to the market is now by boat. But I don’t care, I’m too busy feeling like Poirot in the back of the limo, watching the poverty outside and feeling slightly guilty. At least I’m bringing in the tourist dollar.

The hotel is astonishing. The service is even more polite and attentive  than at the Park Hyatt Tokyo, and my suite is incredible. There is a lounge, a lobby, a bathroom, a bedroom, and each room, even the bathroom, is bigger than any hotel I’ve been in on this trip. There’s a coffee machine, and iPod music system, three air con units, luxury toiletries, it goes beyond description and has every amenity imaginable.

The lobby is stunning, with catfish instead of the advertised crocodiles, but no less impressive for that. The pool is even more sensational, and the restaurant surrounding it looks fantastic. I’m pleased to discover that my bargain booking includes a free massage and a free lunch, so I sit down poolside to enjoy a glass of delicious French red and a beautiful lunch from the French chefs, feeling more and more like royalty and running out of superlatives. I’m very definitely going to enjoy it here!

Day 15 Hanoi, originally uploaded by Big Al!.

Morning on the boat in the bay, with more incredible views and fantastic food, before a long bus ride back to the craziness of Hanoi. The insane traffic and buzzing night market are indescribable, an assault on all the senses as you put your life in the hands of a thousand moped riders every time you cross the road, and your faith in the immune system every time you sample a street-brewed "bia hoi" or an unidentified morsel of deep fried mystery meat.

Day 14 Halong Bay, originally uploaded by Big Al!.

Halong Bay, Vietnam, is stunning. Our boat is superb, a triple dealer with en-suite cabins, a bar and restaurant, and sun loungers on the top deck. After a lunch of freshly caught fish and sea food, Vietnamese style, we sail to a spectacular limestone cave. Then I take to the water in a kayak with Steve, and we paddle around the islands. After a while we find our own private beach on one of the islands, and I go swimming in the wonderfully warm waters of the south China sea. Dinner is even better than lunch, and the view of the bay as night falls is sensational with the many boats lit up and the islands in silhouette.

Day 13 Hue to Hanoi, originally uploaded by Big Al!.

Rainy cycle tour of Hue and the citadel, boat ride on the perfume river. Phone wet in heavy rain, now broken, using backup which is rubbish. Overnight train to Hanoi. Interesting…

Day 12 Hue, originally uploaded by Big Al!.

First two legs of today’s cycling are along the roads I rode yesterday on the motorcycle. As usual, I finish each leg about 15 minutes before the rest, some as slow as 30 more minutes over 20km. The third leg is up the Hai Van pass. I start last and I ride hard, catching those that started a good 3 or 4 minutes before me after about 2 of the 10km, and I track the fastest for another 7. Near the top, a petrol tanker passes, I stand up and sprint after it, and just manage to catch it, grabbing hold of the rear bumper. I truck surf the last 500m to the top, swallowing diesel fumes, laughing along with the truck’s passenger who hangs out of the window and waves, fighting to balance and not be pulled under the wheels. A minute of exhilaration and I’m at the top, where it’s very foggy. The downhill is good fun too, but having reached the top and knowing there’s only one short ride left, it feels like I’ve finished this trip. Tomorrow we have a morning in Hue
before boarding the reunification express to Hanoi, then a night on a boat in Halong bay, and a final night in Hanoi.